The Soshiotsuki Fall 2026 Menswear Collection made its international debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence, showcasing a fresh perspective on tailoring that bridges traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern influences. Designer Soshi Otsuki, recently awarded the prestigious LVMH Prize, presented his collection to an enthusiastic crowd, marking his first show outside Japan.
Arriving in Florence on the morning of the show after a hectic model casting in Milan, Otsuki appeared bleary-eyed yet fulfilled. “It seems like it was well received, so I’m relieved,” he shared, reflecting on the pressures of debuting on such a significant stage. The anticipation was palpable in the historic Santa Maria Novella, where the audience eagerly awaited the unveiling of Otsuki’s vision.
Otsuki’s previous lookbooks had already garnered attention for their nostalgic references to Japan’s bubble era salarymen, paired with a contemporary flair reminiscent of Armani. At Pitti, he aimed to transcend these comparisons, collaborating with stylist Alister Mackie to incorporate an “80s flair” that remained distinctly modern. “I’ve become a little neurotic about it,” he confessed, acknowledging the scrutiny surrounding his design identity.
The collection highlighted intricate details and innovative fabrications. Notable features included oversized peak lapels, cropped ribbed cardigans, and trousers adorned with abundant belt loops and deep pleats. One standout piece was a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit designed to mimic a button-up shirt and trousers. Otsuki introduced a unique yarn-dyed suiting fabric that redefined gray through a blend of black and beige, enhancing his signature power suits.
Vibrant colors and textures infused the collection with vitality. Pieces like orange cable knit sweaters, thick forest green corduroy, and toffee leather suits offered a new dimension to menswear. This collection marked a bold departure, presenting a vision that was neither strictly Japanese nor Italian but rather a fresh narrative within contemporary tailoring.
In collaboration with Proleta Re Art, Otsuki incorporated a sashiko suit and jeans featuring hand-stitched fabrics, merging streetwear with high fashion. Other collaborations included a quarter-zip design with Asics, cigarette holder rings by artist Kota Okuda, and bespoke shirts by Spanish shirtmaker Camisas Monolo. These partnerships reflect Otsuki’s strategic effort to broaden his brand’s reach and establish a lasting legacy.
The audience’s response was electric. As the show concluded, attendees rushed to admire the innovative looks that had emerged from Japan. “Beyond! It was beyond!” exclaimed one enthusiastic spectator, capturing the excitement in the room. Otsuki, maintaining a calm demeanor amidst the flash of cameras, took in the accolades, marking a successful chapter for his burgeoning career.
This debut not only underscores Otsuki’s talent but also signifies a transformative moment in the menswear landscape, where cultural influences intersect to create something genuinely new and captivating. The journey for Soshiotsuki is just beginning, and the fashion world is keenly observing the evolution of this promising designer.
