The opening of Shein’s first physical store in Paris has sparked significant controversy and protests, overshadowing what was initially a bustling event. On November 1, 2023, shoppers lined up outside the upscale BHV department store on Rue de Rivoli to mark the arrival of the Chinese fast-fashion giant. Despite the excitement, the launch was marred by backlash over Shein’s business practices, including accusations of child labor and environmental harm.
Frédéric Merlin, the owner of BHV, welcomed over 50,000 visitors to the store within the first few days, as reported on social media. However, the presence of the controversial brand has fueled widespread criticism. Protesters gathered outside the store on opening day, holding signs that read, “Protect the children. Not Shein,” while others expressed their disdain for anyone purchasing from the retailer.
The backlash stems from ongoing allegations against Shein regarding its labor practices and the environmental impact of its ultra-cheap clothing. Despite these issues, many customers cited low prices as their primary motivation for shopping at the new store. “Nobody here in the queue condones pedophiles, okay?” remarked one customer, defending their choice to shop at Shein amid the protests.
Retail Partnerships and Departures
The controversy has also led to significant fallout within the French retail landscape. Several French brands, including the well-known womenswear label Agnès B, have pulled their products from BHV in response to the partnership with Shein. Agnès Troublé, founder of Agnès B, expressed her strong opposition to fast fashion, stating, “I am totally against this fast fashion, which is worse than anything.” She confirmed that her brand would not continue its contract with BHV beyond January 2024.
Additionally, French skincare brand Skin & Out took immediate action by buying back its products from BHV, following the announcement of the Shein collaboration. Other brands that have withdrawn from BHV include A.P.C., Odaje, and Figaret Paris, as the backlash against Shein continues to ripple through the fashion community.
Future of Shein in France
BHV has ambitious plans to expand Shein’s presence by opening shop-in-shops within five Galeries Lafayette locations across France. However, this partnership has also faced hurdles, as Galeries Lafayette announced it would terminate its licensing agreement with BHV due to the association with Shein. Consequently, the planned openings in cities such as Angers, Dijon, and Grenoble have been postponed indefinitely.
In response to the mounting controversies, BHV has decided to delay the openings of Shein’s locations in Galeries Lafayette. A spokesperson commented, “We prefer to push the openings back by a few days, to get around the table, improve the range, expand the spaces, and offer lower prices.”
Despite the challenges, BHV remains committed to its decision to welcome Shein, viewing the initial turnout as a success. The ongoing protests and criticisms highlight the complex dynamics of consumer behavior, ethical considerations, and the evolving landscape of retail in France. As the situation develops, it will be crucial to observe whether consumer sentiment shifts and how it impacts Shein’s operations in the country.
